Sleeping in Srinagar-Home Stays

Homes away from home are becoming more and more popular amongst Indians. Some are called boutique guest houses while others are known as Home stays. Here's a list of some well known ones, in Srinagar.

1) Almond Villa- This eighty year old colonial building, which stands elusively opposite the Dal Lake, is a quaint property that belongs to the Dogra Family of Jammu and Kashmir. Unlike, the hustle bustle that surrounds the hotels situated on the famous Boulevard Road of Srinagar, The Almond Villa remains one of the quietest properties, while still managing to give a breathtaking view of the Dal. The expanse is covered with a variety of flowers and fruit orchards, where many species of birds can be found. The famous Dara Shikoh festival is organised here every year. The tariff is around Rs 5,500.

2) Mahatta Home Stay- Situated in the well-known Rajbagh locality of Srinagar, this home stay is highly vouched by the single women who travel to the Valley. There are seven deluxe rooms and four standard rooms with all the basic amenities like attached toilets,  a Wi-fi connection, room service and parking. During the season the price is around Rs 3,500 and mid and off season around 2,500-3,000 respectively.

4) Dove Cottages- The Dove Cottages is a boutique hotel that was recently started by a mother daughter team. The rooms are done up in a traditional Kashmiri style with  Khatambund (wooden, hand carved) ceilings and accessorised with Crewel (local embroidery) Cushion Covers. The tariff starts from  Rs 4,000 for a single room and goes up to Rs 7,500 for a premium quality double room. 

5) Travellers Inn- The Travellers Inn is a private home stay run by a brother-sister duo in Srinagar, as well as in Pahalgam. While the one in Srinagar is situated in the quietest corner of Rajbagh, next to the Convent; the one in Pahalgam is a stone's throw away from the Lidder River. Both the huts are small with just four bedrooms each and a living area; which make both these properties ideal for a family vacation. The tariff is close to Rs 10,000.

There are many lovely places to stay in Srinagar. Keep a watch out for more on this blog.

Single Woman's Guide For Surviving Kashmir

Saadiya Kochar

Though it is considered to be paradise on earth, Kashmir on the onset for a single woman can be quite a hellish experience. Don't get me wrong, learn a few tricks, fabricate a few lies, grow a thick skin and you will love the Valley. That's what I did!

Some of the kindest, most hospitable people I've met in my life are Kashmiris. But lets not forget for a single moment, that it's a fragile, conflict affected area . Everything that you will do, will determine how safe you will remain.

Here are a few simple rules for female travelers, who wish to spend a fair bit of solo time in Kashmir-

1)  DON'T BE AFRAID -  As soon as you arrive, from the taxi driver to the concierge at your hotel will tell you the scariest stories. They'll ask you not to trust anyone other than them. Don't worry, stay in the loop and just trust your gut instinct. My first trip to Kashmir, was definitely the most harrowing. From remarks about my religious identity, to my single status-I had everything flung at me, in one go. I was so disappointed, I thought I would never return. But then I thought to myself, I can't let a bunch of intolerant people scare me. So I went back. It's been more than five years, since my first trip and each year I spend at least a few months in Kashmir. So keep a lid on the fear and the anger, don't let a few bad apples ruin your trip.

Saadiya Kochar with a Fisher Woman in Srinagar.

2) GET SOME PROTECTION - Though you need not fear anything, you will still need a little bit of protection. I wish I could say, pepper spray and a knife is what you need. Fortunately or unfortunately, they never work in the Valley. A local guide/contact/protector is a necessity. If you're traveling for work, ask someone at the local office to keep in touch with you. If you're traveling for pleasure, get yourself a recommended guide. He might swindle your money but that's the way you remain out of trouble.  Don't hesitate to ask for such favours.

Saadiya Kochar- Shooting in Kashmir

3) BE A CONSERVATIVE DRESSER-The first few years I spent in Kashmir, I  mostly wore a phiran (traditional outfit) and covered my head.  In the Kashmiri society untied hair is considered quite inappropriate and mine is too untamed, for their liking. Though these are extreme measures, I had to take because of the nature of my work, I would still recommend being conservatively clad, carrying a scarf and covering up tattoos.  If you're going to spend a lot of time at the tourists spots, like Gulmarg and Pahalgam, then you can relax and not worry about these things.

4) NO LATE NIGHTS- If you're alone in Srinagar and planning to have a quite dinner after 10 p.m, think again. It's not like you'll get into any trouble for doing so. But you will not see the local women, out at that time. For doing so, you'll  just stand out like a sore thumb. If you're with a male companion or in a group Kashmir is a great place to vacation. But due to the conflict in the region, the Kashmiri society has become very conservative. For a female traveler it is not the friendliest environment.

5) CHOOSE THE LODGING AREA CAREFULLY- If you're planning to stay at any of the well known hotels, everything will go by smoothly. But if you want to spend a long duration of time in Srinagar, it's going to be a tricky proposition to find a decent accommodation. PG accommodations, and apartments for hire are not readily available. Concord Residency in Rajbagh, is a decent, safe place to rent so is Mrs Mahatta's guest house.