50 Days of Unrest

Raina

I get accused all the time about being pro-Islam/ Pro Kashmiri rights and what not. If my work from Kashmir or anywhere was examined carefully, the examiner would not come to any conclusions. The dichotomy and ambiguity of my nature would be reflected. The constant need to look at both sides of the coin and not picking one- the complete fascination for both good and evil, day and night, masculine and feminine would be clearly seen. But Alas! we live in a world where no one has the time to look at anything, carefully.

So let me tell you where I come from. I'm neither Hindu nor Muslim. My parents are Sikhs, which should automatically make me one. I have spent more time in churches and dargahs than gurudwaras, only because of my affinity with quite places. But I believe I  have neither religion, nor nationality.  I was born in J&K but I'm not Kashmiri. I come from a family where one of my sister's is married to Kashmiri Pandit boy and one of my brother's to a Muslim girl from Bhadarwa. Now that enough of background and my standing has been stated, try not to pin me down and put me in a box. It would be an exercise in futility.

I read somewhere that one of the meanings of the name Raina in Bulgarian is- 'paradise'. I don't think that the Pandits who were named Raina, where called so because they lived in paradise (Kashmir). But it has been stated, that the Pandit families who originally lived in Rainawari and then moved into the main city where called by the surname- Raina.

Nikhil Raina,  my Brother-in- Law never lived in Rainawari. He resided in a famous Pandit locality of Srinagar, Habba Kadal close to the Ganpatyar Temple, with his maternal grandmother. Though, he personally never witnessed the Pandit exodus, his family did. Living with his nani, helped him to remain a bit disconnected from what happened. Nikhil, is a 37 year old  Kashmiri Pandit man who lives in Bombay, these days.


Q1 What are your earliest memories of Kashmir?

Earliest memories are that of the snow and of going to school. I also remember the Ganpatyar temple very distinctly. I recall going to my maternal grand father's shop in Habba Kadal, after school.The temple was bang oppisite our shop. Since I lived with my maternal side, my memories of Kashmir are primarily of Srinagar. My parents lived in Kulgam with the rest of the family. I don't remember that very clearly.

Q2) What are your feelings about the Kashmiri Pandits exodus from the Valley?

About the exodus - I don't have very strong feelings, since I left the Valley much before militancy. I shifted to Delhi. But my parent's suffered a lot in Kulgam. They received threats and that made them leave. When they were in Kashmir we had a bunglow with around fifteen rooms but when my family migrated to Jammu, they had to live with a relative. There were seven of them in one bedroom, for one whole year! Of course, they were lucky- no one had to stay in a migration camp.

As far as exodus is concerned, personally I think it was a blessing in disguise for the Kashmiri Pandit youth. The kind of exposure they got was huge. They left their homeland but the displacement helped them to achieve a lot.

Q3) For a Kashmiri how hard is it survive in Bombay, considering the climate and the cuisine?

The climate and the cuisine- I don't think that matters now to anyone, anymore. It's been a long, long time since my family left Kashmir and shifted to different parts of the country . So all of us have adapted nicely to our present environment and culture.

Meaning of the name Raina

The Two Thugs

The Two Thugs




There was once a thug, who called himself a tradesmen. If asked what he dealt in, his reply was, whatever can give me a meagre profit.

To Be Continued. 

Himal & Nagrai

Folktales of Kashmir

Soda Ram, was a poor Brahmin man who had the misfortune of being married to a nag. His wife, was terribly disappointed in him as he couldn't fulfill her materialistic ambitions. Soda Ram was tired of her constant complaining but couldn't find a way out. One day, his wife asked him to visit the king to receive alms from him. Soda Ram was only too pleased to get away from the constant complaining, so he left, without so much as a murmur.

He returned a few days later carrying a bag, which he presented to his wife. The woman felt suspicious as her husband had never been this nice to her but decided to open the bag. Out leapt a serpent. The poor woman screamed and shrieked but her husband had locked her in the room and wouldn't let her out. ''Let it sting you'', he replied to all her pleading. 
But the serpent decided to spare the woman and miraculously turned into a beautiful baby boy. 

This boy was called Nagrai, the king of serpents. The Brahmin and his wife took care of the little boy and soon he grew into a beautiful young man. One day, he asked his foster father to take him to a pure spring so that he could bathe. The Brahmin couldn't help this young man, whom he adored- as the only spring of that kind belonged to the princess. But Nagrai, pleaded with his father to take him till the outer wall. When he reached there, Nagrai turned into a serpent, crawled in through a tiny crevice in the wall and took a bath.

The next day, the princess Himal observed that someone had taken a dip in her spring because she had heard the splashing of water. but she couldn't see anyone. As all such love stories go, she saw Nagrai one day and fell in love with him. She inquired about him from the serHimal, though a well mannered girl was so taken by Nagrai's handsomeness, that she immediately approached he father and insisted on marrying this boy. The poor King did not know how to respond to this request. But eventually, gave in as his precious daughter refused to eat.

To be Continued. 

Lailut-ul-Qadr/Shab-e-Qadr

They say that the night of the Lailut-ul-Qadr, or the Shab-e-Qadr is the night of Power. Lail means night and the word qadr means decree. Lailut-ul-Qadr is considered, the night of decree  because the Muslims believe that the Quran, their Holy Book was revealed to them on this night.

 In the Holy Quran, it states that for praying the night of power is better than a thousand months.

The Sahih Bukhari further states that anyone who prays during the night of Shab-e-Qadr will be forgiven all of their past sins. There are contradictory claims to the actual date on which this night falls. While Sayeed Bukhari states, that it’s one of the odd numbered nights in the last ten day of the month of Ramazan. Therefore, it could be on the 21^st, 23^rd, 25^th, 27^th or the 29^th day of the month. While, according to the Sayeed Muslim- it’s the 27^th night of the Holy Month of Ramazan. There are apparently, 40 different versions stating which is the Night of Power.

Tonight lakhs of people in Kashmir, will be observing the Shab-e-Qadr. The Jamia Masjid, itself will have people filtering in from all parts of Kashmir for this special night. According to a Greater Kashmir report, the Jamia Masjid expects a congregation of close to a lakh while the Hazratbal Shrine expects about close to thirty thousand people tonight.

Shab-e-Qadr in Kashmir

Sleeping in Srinagar-Home Stays

Homes away from home are becoming more and more popular amongst Indians. Some are called boutique guest houses while others are known as Home stays. Here's a list of some well known ones, in Srinagar.

1) Almond Villa- This eighty year old colonial building, which stands elusively opposite the Dal Lake, is a quaint property that belongs to the Dogra Family of Jammu and Kashmir. Unlike, the hustle bustle that surrounds the hotels situated on the famous Boulevard Road of Srinagar, The Almond Villa remains one of the quietest properties, while still managing to give a breathtaking view of the Dal. The expanse is covered with a variety of flowers and fruit orchards, where many species of birds can be found. The famous Dara Shikoh festival is organised here every year. The tariff is around Rs 5,500.

2) Mahatta Home Stay- Situated in the well-known Rajbagh locality of Srinagar, this home stay is highly vouched by the single women who travel to the Valley. There are seven deluxe rooms and four standard rooms with all the basic amenities like attached toilets,  a Wi-fi connection, room service and parking. During the season the price is around Rs 3,500 and mid and off season around 2,500-3,000 respectively.

4) Dove Cottages- The Dove Cottages is a boutique hotel that was recently started by a mother daughter team. The rooms are done up in a traditional Kashmiri style with  Khatambund (wooden, hand carved) ceilings and accessorised with Crewel (local embroidery) Cushion Covers. The tariff starts from  Rs 4,000 for a single room and goes up to Rs 7,500 for a premium quality double room. 

5) Travellers Inn- The Travellers Inn is a private home stay run by a brother-sister duo in Srinagar, as well as in Pahalgam. While the one in Srinagar is situated in the quietest corner of Rajbagh, next to the Convent; the one in Pahalgam is a stone's throw away from the Lidder River. Both the huts are small with just four bedrooms each and a living area; which make both these properties ideal for a family vacation. The tariff is close to Rs 10,000.

There are many lovely places to stay in Srinagar. Keep a watch out for more on this blog.

Ghulam Ahmed Mahjoor

Ghulam Ahmed Mahjoor

Habba Khatoon translated by S.N Wakhlu

Habba Khatoon

Lal Ded.

Lal Ded

Mahjoor

Mahjoor

Kashmiri Folklore- Wai Wouf

Wai Wouf-  The Wai Wouf is supposedly a nocturnal creature. There are many versions of the tales about this creature. Some believe that it is an animal-a cat or dog that howls wouf wouf, while it moves around in desolated houses. While others believe the Wai Wouf is a little midget whose powers lie in his toup, his cap.

This is a story I heard from Ayaz who heard it from his grandparents.

"One day a donga walla who used to go for work in the Dal captured the Wai Wouf’s cap. So he started using the power of the cap to control the creature. The donga walla had reduced it into a common slave and would send him to run errands. Now the Wai Wouf was very clever. He waited for an opportunity to regain his power by repossessing his cap.  One day, the Wai Wouf tricked the man’s wife to return his cap and as soon as he repossessed it he killed the entire family by submerging the  donga into water."- Ayaz (lives  near the Dal in Srinagar) 

Folklore from Kashmir-Wai Wouf

Kashmiri Folklore- Naar Mokal

The Naar Mokal is similar to the Brum Brum Brum Chouk. A spirit that is made up of fire. It’s known for spreading fires by jumping  quickly from one house to another. 

Folklore From Kashmir-Naar Mokal

Kashmiri Folklore-The Tasrufdars

Tasrufdars are believed to be tiny elves, who live in and around water bodies. They are apparently disturbed by human presence and can be harmful. Villagers around Hatbalnag believe that the spring was sacred as tasrufdars lived in it and they would harm anyone who polluted the spring. Some people believe that they can also be found in big old chinar trees.

Folklore of Kashmir-Tasrufdar

Kashmiri Folklore-The Raantas

The Raantas or Rantus is another mythical entity. She is your classical run of the mill bollywood ki ‘chudel’. The witch with the feet turned in the opposite direction. The kind of entity who kidnaps men and then takes them to her cave in the mountain. There are many similar female mythical entities in Kashmiri Folklore.
 The 'Rih' is said to be a seductress too, who entices men in order to devour them. Many stories have merged into one, therefore the raantaas and the rih have kind of become one entity.
Then there are others-the 'Dyn' or like she is called in Hindi 'Daien' who is also a female; who too eats out the hearts of men. The Degins and the Degus, according to Vigne, ''seek husbands amongst mortals, but that their attachment is productive of fatal consequences, as its object dies in the course of two or three months.''

Folklore Of Kashmir-Raantas

Habba Khatoon

Habba Khatoon

Habba Khatoon, also known as the Nightingale of Kashmir was a 16th century poetess.


This is one of her poems-
He who has killed every fabric of me
I long for a sight of him,
He looked at me over the wall
I would present him a fine tosh shawl.
Why he feels annoyed with me?
I have ever since long yearning for him.
Slyly, he peered through the door,
Who lead him to my house?
Every part of my body is now in pain
For long I been yearning for him.- Habba Khatoon.

Nund Rishi

Nund Rishi

Single Woman's Guide For Surviving Kashmir

Saadiya Kochar

Though it is considered to be paradise on earth, Kashmir on the onset for a single woman can be quite a hellish experience. Don't get me wrong, learn a few tricks, fabricate a few lies, grow a thick skin and you will love the Valley. That's what I did!

Some of the kindest, most hospitable people I've met in my life are Kashmiris. But lets not forget for a single moment, that it's a fragile, conflict affected area . Everything that you will do, will determine how safe you will remain.

Here are a few simple rules for female travelers, who wish to spend a fair bit of solo time in Kashmir-

1)  DON'T BE AFRAID -  As soon as you arrive, from the taxi driver to the concierge at your hotel will tell you the scariest stories. They'll ask you not to trust anyone other than them. Don't worry, stay in the loop and just trust your gut instinct. My first trip to Kashmir, was definitely the most harrowing. From remarks about my religious identity, to my single status-I had everything flung at me, in one go. I was so disappointed, I thought I would never return. But then I thought to myself, I can't let a bunch of intolerant people scare me. So I went back. It's been more than five years, since my first trip and each year I spend at least a few months in Kashmir. So keep a lid on the fear and the anger, don't let a few bad apples ruin your trip.

Saadiya Kochar with a Fisher Woman in Srinagar.

2) GET SOME PROTECTION - Though you need not fear anything, you will still need a little bit of protection. I wish I could say, pepper spray and a knife is what you need. Fortunately or unfortunately, they never work in the Valley. A local guide/contact/protector is a necessity. If you're traveling for work, ask someone at the local office to keep in touch with you. If you're traveling for pleasure, get yourself a recommended guide. He might swindle your money but that's the way you remain out of trouble.  Don't hesitate to ask for such favours.

Saadiya Kochar- Shooting in Kashmir

3) BE A CONSERVATIVE DRESSER-The first few years I spent in Kashmir, I  mostly wore a phiran (traditional outfit) and covered my head.  In the Kashmiri society untied hair is considered quite inappropriate and mine is too untamed, for their liking. Though these are extreme measures, I had to take because of the nature of my work, I would still recommend being conservatively clad, carrying a scarf and covering up tattoos.  If you're going to spend a lot of time at the tourists spots, like Gulmarg and Pahalgam, then you can relax and not worry about these things.

4) NO LATE NIGHTS- If you're alone in Srinagar and planning to have a quite dinner after 10 p.m, think again. It's not like you'll get into any trouble for doing so. But you will not see the local women, out at that time. For doing so, you'll  just stand out like a sore thumb. If you're with a male companion or in a group Kashmir is a great place to vacation. But due to the conflict in the region, the Kashmiri society has become very conservative. For a female traveler it is not the friendliest environment.

5) CHOOSE THE LODGING AREA CAREFULLY- If you're planning to stay at any of the well known hotels, everything will go by smoothly. But if you want to spend a long duration of time in Srinagar, it's going to be a tricky proposition to find a decent accommodation. PG accommodations, and apartments for hire are not readily available. Concord Residency in Rajbagh, is a decent, safe place to rent so is Mrs Mahatta's guest house.