Rain Rain Go away

50 Days of Unrest

PRESS

These are some of the articles that have appeared in the leading newspapers about my work from Kashmir.

Article printed in Greater Kashmir about Folktales . 2014

http://www.greaterkashmir.com/news/2014/Aug/8/the-success-story-of-a-son-in-law-10.asp

Mention on New York Times Blog-2013

Asian Age-2012

http://archive.asianage.com/life-and-style/portraits-pain-document-loss-310

Deccan Herald- 2012

http://www.deccanherald.com/content/299577/a-story-loss.html

Indian Express-2012

http://archive.indianexpress.com/news/show-stealers/1120934/


Hindustan Times-(2010)

http://www.hindustantimes.com/news-feed/views/conflict-camera/article1-550045.aspx

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The Two Thugs

The Two Thugs




There was once a thug, who called himself a tradesmen. If asked what he dealt in, his reply was, whatever can give me a meagre profit.

To Be Continued. 

Single Woman's Guide For Surviving Kashmir

Saadiya Kochar

Though it is considered to be paradise on earth, Kashmir on the onset for a single woman can be quite a hellish experience. Don't get me wrong, learn a few tricks, fabricate a few lies, grow a thick skin and you will love the Valley. That's what I did!

Some of the kindest, most hospitable people I've met in my life are Kashmiris. But lets not forget for a single moment, that it's a fragile, conflict affected area . Everything that you will do, will determine how safe you will remain.

Here are a few simple rules for female travelers, who wish to spend a fair bit of solo time in Kashmir-

1)  DON'T BE AFRAID -  As soon as you arrive, from the taxi driver to the concierge at your hotel will tell you the scariest stories. They'll ask you not to trust anyone other than them. Don't worry, stay in the loop and just trust your gut instinct. My first trip to Kashmir, was definitely the most harrowing. From remarks about my religious identity, to my single status-I had everything flung at me, in one go. I was so disappointed, I thought I would never return. But then I thought to myself, I can't let a bunch of intolerant people scare me. So I went back. It's been more than five years, since my first trip and each year I spend at least a few months in Kashmir. So keep a lid on the fear and the anger, don't let a few bad apples ruin your trip.

Saadiya Kochar with a Fisher Woman in Srinagar.

2) GET SOME PROTECTION - Though you need not fear anything, you will still need a little bit of protection. I wish I could say, pepper spray and a knife is what you need. Fortunately or unfortunately, they never work in the Valley. A local guide/contact/protector is a necessity. If you're traveling for work, ask someone at the local office to keep in touch with you. If you're traveling for pleasure, get yourself a recommended guide. He might swindle your money but that's the way you remain out of trouble.  Don't hesitate to ask for such favours.

Saadiya Kochar- Shooting in Kashmir

3) BE A CONSERVATIVE DRESSER-The first few years I spent in Kashmir, I  mostly wore a phiran (traditional outfit) and covered my head.  In the Kashmiri society untied hair is considered quite inappropriate and mine is too untamed, for their liking. Though these are extreme measures, I had to take because of the nature of my work, I would still recommend being conservatively clad, carrying a scarf and covering up tattoos.  If you're going to spend a lot of time at the tourists spots, like Gulmarg and Pahalgam, then you can relax and not worry about these things.

4) NO LATE NIGHTS- If you're alone in Srinagar and planning to have a quite dinner after 10 p.m, think again. It's not like you'll get into any trouble for doing so. But you will not see the local women, out at that time. For doing so, you'll  just stand out like a sore thumb. If you're with a male companion or in a group Kashmir is a great place to vacation. But due to the conflict in the region, the Kashmiri society has become very conservative. For a female traveler it is not the friendliest environment.

5) CHOOSE THE LODGING AREA CAREFULLY- If you're planning to stay at any of the well known hotels, everything will go by smoothly. But if you want to spend a long duration of time in Srinagar, it's going to be a tricky proposition to find a decent accommodation. PG accommodations, and apartments for hire are not readily available. Concord Residency in Rajbagh, is a decent, safe place to rent so is Mrs Mahatta's guest house. 

21 THINGS TO DO IN SRINAGAR, KASHMIR.

 

1) Wake up at dawn and go for the Floating Market in the Dal Lake.

2) Stay in a houseboat, at the Nigeen Lake.

3) Go for a Shikara ride at Sunset.

Kashmir Through My Eyes

4) Visit Hazratbal Shrine on a Friday, to see a large congregation of women praying.

5) Visit the Mughal Gardens.

6) Drink fresh water from the spring at Chashma Shahi.

7) Visit the Sri Pratap Singh Museum.

8) Walk, all the way up to the Shankaracharya Temple.

9) Shop at the Kashmir Government Emporium.

10) Visit the Botanical gardens and the Tulip Garden.

11) For Kashmiri cuisine (Wazwaan) go to Ahdoos.

12) For Mughal cuisine, visit the famous Shamyana Restaurant on the Boulevard.

13) Eat Harisa on a winter morning, from Hat Trick. 

14) Eat a whole Trami of Kashmiri food at the Grand Restaurant.

15) Listen to Radio Kashmir and Big 92.7, for Kashmiri Songs.

16) Buy Kashmiri Movies from Lal Chowk.

17) Visit Jama Masjid for the Jumma Namaz.

18) Dress up in traditional Kashmiri attire and get a picture clicked.

Kashmir Through My Eyes

 

19) Visit the Taj Vivanta at night, for a spectacular view of the city.

  

20) Go to the the spa at at the Lalit, to unwind.

 

21) Hire a golf cart and self drive through the Royal Spring Golf Course.

LOSS..... and beyond by Saadiya Kochar

A few years ago I started traveling to Kashmir, for my personal reasons (check out the film for that). What was initially supposed to a book on Kashmir, became a movie, an exhibition, a yet to be released book and now this blog. What I have lost can never be regained but what Kashmir gave me was a strange kind of calm to deal with the  chaos in my life.
There is so much information one has gathered about Kashmir- about its language, its folklore and of course its people. I'm not a Kashmiri, so I guess I will always have the view of someone peeping through the window. So this is the view of a Peeping Tom. Sometimes, I guess a Peeping Tom notices  certain details of the house than the inhabitants themselves, fail to notice.

Loss a film on Kashmir by Saadiya Kochar

Tulip Garden

1. The Tulip Garden or Siraj Bagh in Kashmir, is a romanticist’s delight. The tulips have been imported     from Netherlands and there are almost 50 varieties, in different hues and shades that are found in this garden which stands on the banks of the Dal Lake. The tulips bloom during spring, which is one of the best times to visit the valley.

The Vale of Kashmir-A concise introduction.

Perched at an average height of 1500 meters above sea level, the Vale of Kashmir, which is the northernmost side of India is separated from the plains by the Pirpanjal Ranges. On this side of the Banihal tunnel, there are towering mountains, lush green meadows and mystical blue-green lakes.

Legend goes that the vale of Kashmir was once a large lake. Rishi Kashyap drained off the water of the lake and the beautiful land of Kashmir emerged. The recorded history of the valley dates back the 3rd century B.C when the emperor Ashoka ruled. He is said to have introduced Buddhism to Kashmir, which was further supported by emperor Kanishka. The Valley of Kashmir was occupied by Huns and then came the rule of Vikramaditiya. A number of local rulers reigns later, the rule of Lalitaditya (697-738 A.D.) began. He was one of the most famous Hindu rulers of Kashmir who is also known to have constructed many beautiful buildings.

Islam was introduced to Kashmir in 13^th – 14^th century by Zain-ul-Abedin (1420-70), who was considered the most prominent Muslim ruler. In 1158, Akbar conquered Kashmir and under the Mughals Kashmir flourished. In 1752, Kashmir passed into the hands of Afghans, who were succeeded by the Sikhs. It then passed into the hands of the British and then finally it went to the Dogra rulers after a treaty was signed.

The Vale Of Kashmir